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Bonaire Excursion December/January 2006/2007: Scuba certification offered in English & ASL. Check back in March for more details.

Tobacco Caye (Pronounced Tobacco Key)

General Information
Tobacco Caye is a 5 acre sandbar about a half an hour from the mainland, in the middle of the second largest Barrier Reef in the world, at the northern edge of the South Water Cayes Marine Reserve. Tobacco Caye is a place to lay out on the beach or a hammock, relax, redefine the definition of relaxing or read a book. Children enjoy the relative freedom the small island allows. Many follow the paths of hermit crabs for hours or pet the few resident cats and dogs. While on Tobacco Caye, your only obligations are to go to meals when they are ready and settle your bill at the end. Tobacco Caye is NOT like Cancun with lots of things to do day and night. It is not a commercial island: if you want a t-shirt from there, you'll have to get one printed here! There are no televisions, public telephones or internet access. This is a place to separate from your busy life back home and connect with yourself, your family, friends, other travelers and the island and her 25 or so native inhabitants.

Lodging
There are 6 small hotels on the island, with various rates and amenities.

The Tobacco Caye Dive Center is affiliated with Reef's End Lodge and offers stay and dive packages. Rates are about $65 a night per person for lodging and 3 meals. They also offer more expensive Cabanas and a Honeymoon suite. All of their rooms have private bathrooms with showers. The other hotels range in cost and some have shared toilets and showers. Camping is also an option for about $10 a night at a few hotels (meals would be priced separately).

The prices listed below represent my best attempts at gathering information and could have errors.

Reef's End Lodge: www.ReefsEndLodge.com rooms $65, cabana $75, suite $90 tel.501/522-2419, Southern Tip of the Island

Ocean's Edge: www.global-travel.co.uk/ocean.htm rooms $50, Eastern View oceansedge@btl.net

Paradise Lodge: rooms $25, cabana $35, Northern Tip of the Island tel.501/520-5101

Tobacco Caye Lodge: www.TCLodgeBelize.com room $60 tel.501/520-5033, Eastern View

Lana's: room $40 shared bathroom, Western View tel.501/520-5036

Gaviota's: room/cabana $30 shared bath tel. 501/509-5032, Eastern View

Food
Meals are either included in the cost of the hotel or bring your own. Most people eat where they are staying as buying a meal from a different hotel will cost more. People who are sailing from island to island should make arrangements with a kitchen by lunch time so there is enough time to catch and prepare dinner. Kitchens can make some accommodations if you have certain dietary restrictions such as Vegeterian, Kosher, or Celiac, but if these dietary considerations are essential, bring your own.

There are 3 bars on the island, one of which is usually open in the afternoon until 9-9:30pm. They sometimes sell Pringles & Dorritos. If you need more snacks, there are several grocery stores in the town of Dangriga and you can ask a captain to bring you some on his next round trip.

Electricity
For standard US-110 volt outlets does not run continuously. The power comes from a generator which is turned on only when the kitchen needs it, when it's too hot in the evening to sleep without a fan or by request to watch a movie or to charge up camera batteries, a laptop or mini DVD player. All of the overhead lights are florescent and run off solar panels.

Land Sports

  • Jogging/Walking is do-able but many laps are required to get a 30 minute workout.
  • Basketball can be played on the net outside the dive shop.
  • Bull and Cosina card games are played nightly in the Reef's End Lodge dining room.
  • Hammock Testing can take all day!
  • Rummycub is played almost competitively at Lana's mornings and afternoons.
  • Soccer can be played on the "field" near the Tobacco Caye Lodge. Bring your own ball.
  • Volleyball happens almost every afternoon until sunset at the net by Gaviota's. Island rules apply.
  • Yoga just make sure you are not under a coconut tree.

Watersports
Fishing is a pass-time that some guests enjoy. Either bring your own rod or use traditional hand-lines. The locals use special weighted nets to catch live bait. A few guests, especially the under 12 kind, have become quite good at the special toss required to use the net successfully. Some people enjoy fly-fishing, but you must be careful not to stand on the reef.

Kayaks can be rented for very reasonable hourly rates, but the boats themselves and the paddles are not in very good shape. I wouldn't go out further than I could swim back. That said, they are definitely worth an adventure. Some people (with very strong upper bodies) rent kayaks on the mainland and kayak and camp from island to island. You will probably meet some people traveling this way.

Sailing Trips can be arranged once on the island. Bring sunscreen, snorkeling gear and a picnic lunch from your hotel.

SCUBA Diving is done on the second largest barrier reef in the world. Spectacular sites are minutes away from the dock, and a knowledgeable captain and divemaster will ensure the best dive possible given weather conditions and experience. You can dive up to 5 times a day including a shore dive and a night dive, but most people get overcome by the laid-back island atmosphere and get about 2 dives a day in. You will never dive the same site twice.

Eric, the divemaster, personally guides groups of certified divers around the waters of Tobacco Caye and on charters to other dive locales. When diving near the island, your group will be the only people aside from a few free-diving conch fishermen in the area. This privacy is something long gone in areas more well-known and not nearly as nice.

You must have your certification card and proof of diving within the last 6 months. If it's been over 6 months since your last dive, an instructor would be more than willing to review the dive tables, equipment set up, and a few basic skills such as clearing a mask & regulator and honing your buoyancy control.

Safety is the number 1 concern when you are a guest there, followed by enjoyment.

SCUBA Instruction is available on the island through PADI Master SCUBA Diving Trainers.

One of the instructors can conduct courses in American Sign Language.

People wishing to try out SCUBA, get PADI certified, take a specialty course or go to the next level will do so with the guidance of well-trained, PADI professionals in the beautiful warm waters that surround Tobacco Caye.

Get the most out of your vacation by reading the book ahead of time and doing your confined water work in a pool at home.

Snorkeling is done from two points on the island: the Reef's End Lodge offers access to the reef via a dock and swim ladder, and Mark's dock offers access to eel grass and juvenile fish via a dock and wooden ladder. Equipment is available to rent but I recommend bringing your own mask and snorkel. The Tobacco Caye Dive Center carries a range of adult-sized closed-healed fins but does not have child-sized fins or extra large fins.

Swimming is done off Mark's dock as the water is about 10 feet deep. Be sure to bring goggles as the salt water can be very irritating to your eyes without them.

TOBACCO CAYE DIVE CENTER PRICE LIST

PADI Courses Cost incl. gear Time Minimum Confined Dives Open Water Dives
Open Water $350 4 Days 5 4
Advanced $225 2 Days 0 5
Rescue $350 4 Days 5 4
Divemaster Internship $800-$1000 3-8 weeks varies varies
Discover SCUBA $60 1.5 hours 1 0
Discover SCUBA Diving $100 3 hours 1 1
SCUBA Review $70 3 hours max 1 0
Open Water Referral $225 2 days 0 4
Bubblemakers $50 1.5 hours 1 Option additional
Diving Tobacco Caye Gear Cost
DM led Boat Dive Use your own gear: tanks & weights included $30
DM led Boat Dive Gear included $55
2 DM led Boat Dives (one day) Gear included $85
Shore Dive- self-guided, includes dive briefing & watch-out Use your own gear: tanks & weights included $15
DM led Night Dive Use your own gear: tanks & weights included $35
DM led Night Dive Gear included $60

10% discount off 3-night stay at Reef's End Lodge when diving 2+ dives a day.

*All prices and descriptions subject to change.

Rentals per day Cost
Mask, Snorkel & Fins $7.50
Mask & Snorkel $5.00
Fins $5.00
BCD $10.00
Regulator $15.00
Wetsuit-shortie $5.00
Flashlight $5.00
Tanks & Weights $10.00
Tanks/Fills $6.00
Package Deal-weight, tank, suit, reg., BCD $25.00
SCUBA Charters Description Time Cost

Sharks Cave & Stadium

*Tobacco Caye's Signature Dive Site

Better than the acclaimed Blue Hole

This is an advanced dive into a deep and overhead environment where sharks swim in and out and lurk in the darkness beyond the beam of your torch. The dive is located in a secret place known only by local fishermen. Captains will not allow anyone aboard with a GPS.

At 50' the ocean floor opens up to a cave lined with finger-like stalactites. It's a 30 minute multi-level dive with a maximum depth of 130 ft. Dive groups are limited to 6 participants at a time. This will be a highlight of your life. Join the small membership of those who can claim, "I survived Shark's Cave!"

The second dive is a shallow 35' max. depth, which brings you 360¡ around a small reef.

1/2 day $115 each with a 2 person minimum
South Water Caye 2 Tank wall dives. 1/2 day or all day

$115 each with a 2 person minimum

$100 each for 4 people or more

Glovers Reef Atoll 3 Tank dives at the most remote and therefore pristine atoll in Belize. All day

$150 each with a 4 person minimum

$135 each for 6 people or more

Turneff Atoll 3 Tank dives including wall dives and shallow coral gardens. All day

$150 for 4 person minimum

$135 for 6 people or more

Whale Shark Trip April through June - $200 each 2 person minimum
Blue Hole & Lighthouse Reef This fantastic underwater peculiarity is almost perfectly circular with a diameter of 1,000 ft. Divers enjoy swimming between 35 ft dripstones and watching for Caribbean reef sharks. All day $200 each 2 person minimum
Other Charters Description Cost
Fishing Your method of choice, a captain to bring you where you want to go. Either catch and release, or have it prepared for dinner. $25 per person per hour, ask about group rates
Snorkeling A local island expert will bring you to some of the nicest snorkeling in the area and point out different creatures, corals and fish. $25 per person per drop location, ask about group rates
Nature Tours Spend some time cruising the water watching and photographing birds, manatees, and alligators. $25 per person per hour, ask about group rates
Island Drops Island hop to your next location by chartering a boat and captain. Please give at least 24 hours notice to be sure they have enough fuel. Varies depending on distance

Health

Drinking Water
Is collected by catching rainfall using a cistern. The water is safe for drinking, and no-one that I know of has gotten sick from drinking the tap water. Only very paranoid travelers should rely entirely on bottled water or cleaning tablets. Both of these options should be arranged prior to arrival. Typically the bars do not stock gallon jugs of water.

Toilets
Run off a gravity system and use salt water from a well. Ask whether tissue paper should be flushed or put in a waste basket.

Vaccinations
The center for disease control has updated information about travel health advisories. Go to www.cdc.gov/cgi-bin/sendit.exe and ask your doctor to review your immunization record and provide any additional ones you want.

Malaria medicine is not essential in coastal Belize or the islands as mosquitoes are not as big a problem with a sea breeze as they are in the Jungle. Mostly, it seems to be a personal decision whether the side-effects outweigh the risks for you.

Herbal Supplements
A shelf-stable probiotic (beneficial intestinal bacteria) supplement may be helpful in reducing the chance of contracting food or water-borne illness.

Aquatic Dangers
Can be avoided by not touching or stepping on any marine life. The waters around Tobacco Caye are part of a marine reserve, so you are not even allowed to walk out on the exposed reef that surrounds the island.

Stingrays tend to hang out in shallow water on the sand, with only their eyes, gill slits and tails visible. Most will move away if you step near them, but if you step on one, their immediate defensive reaction is to swing their tail around. This normally catches a wader near the ankle and inflicts a puncture, some foreign material left by the sheath, venom, and bacterial contamination. First Aid Treatment is to irrigate the wound and remove the spine and any sheath fragments, then soak the injury in hot water at 113¡F/45¡C (or as warm as possible) for 30-90 minutes or until the pain is relieved. Monitor the patient's pulse and breathing.

Stonefish tend to hang out in shallow water in sand, rocks, or coral reefs. Their bodies are camouflaged with their environment, so the closer you get to the animal, the more it stays still to convince you that it is not a fish but rather a part of the underwater topography. (I can almost hear it's mantra, "I am a rock, I am a rock" when I am in it's vicinity). The spines of a stonefish are very strong and can penetrate even a bootie and deliver a toxic venom. There is immediate pain and the possibility of paralysis, seizures, cardiovascular shock, respiratory distress or death. First Aid Treatment includes relieving pain, removing any foreign bodies, and cleaning the wound. This entails irrigating the wound and removing any spines or foreign objects, then soaking the injury in hot water at 113¡F/45¡C (or as warm as tolerable) for 30-90 minutes or until the pain is relieved. Monitor the patient's pulse and breathing. Antivenom is available through http://www.csl.com.au/VaccinesAntivenomsStonefish_Antivenom.asp.

Cone Shells can grow up to 10 cm and inhabit shallow reefs and rubble, burying themselves in sand with their siphon out to sting and then eat unsuspecting fish swimming by. The proboscis carries 1-20 venomous radicular teeth which can be extended to pierce the skin and even a thin diveskin. The venom produces possible pain, swelling, numbness, muscle weakness, double or blurred vision, paralysis, coma, or death. Most symptoms become present within the first 30 minutes. First Aid Treatment includes reassuring the patient, having the patient rest, immobilizing and applying a pressure bandage to the wounded area and seeking medical assistance, if necessary.

Decompression Illness is a SCUBA-diving related injury that occurs when a diver ascends too quickly resulting in an arterial gas embolism or stays at depth for too long resulting in decompression sickness. Other factors that increase the risk include repetitive diving, flying after diving, a high blood-alcohol level and obesity. Divers should be physically fit, avoid alcohol and other drugs, and follow safe diving protocols including using a dive table conservatively. Plan your dive, dive you plan, log your dive. If decompression sickness is suspected, the First Aid Treatment is pure Oxygen (available in the dive shop) and evacuation to the recompression chamber located in San Pedro.

Ear Infections or swimmers ear is caused by frequent immersion in water and a breakdown of epithelial cells lining the ear canal. Bacteria that is normally in the ear gains access to the spaces under the ear canal epithelium and begin to multiply. First Aid Treatment can be given as a prophylactic or at the first sign of the feeling of water in the ears by tilting the head, filling the ear canal with plain vinegar and letting it soak for a few minutes in each ear. The acidity of vinegar kills any bacteria present without all the bubbling noise from killing the bacteria using hydrogen peroxide. Once the infection progresses, antibiotic eardrops are necessary, and you must avoid water-related activities until cleared.

Land Dangers

Coconuts Falling on your head. Remedy: don't lollygag underneath the coconut trees and remind others when they are standing in the target drop zone.

Stepping on Trash that washes ashore. Remedy: use footwear when walking about on the island.

Trip Insurance
Can be purchased through a variety of companies. I recommend AccessAmerica for non-divers and DAN insurance for divers. If you are a new member signing up with DAN, please do so by following the link below and using my DAN Pro Member Number 1277317. This will help me get a free DAN O2 kit.

What to pack?

  • Rain Poncho- the ride out to the island may be wet.
  • Sandals/Flipflops- I don't generally recommend walking without shoes.
  • Bathing Suits
  • Beach Towel- towels for showering provided.
  • Hat
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Bug repellent
  • After-Bite
  • Sundries
  • Undies
  • Shorts, T-shirts
  • 1 pr. lightweight pants- for occasional cold evenings
  • 1 long-sleeved shirt- for occasional cold evenings or sun protection
  • 1 sweatshirt- for after a night snorkel or dive
  • Camera/film/charger- they use American standard outlets.
  • Batteries
  • Flashlight/Headlamp

Money

The currency is called Belize and has a constant exchange rate with the US of $2.00 BZE equaling $1.00 US. The money is used interchangeably down there, so there is no need to exchange your money. Be sure to know when you are being quoted a price whether it is in BZE or US dollars.

Prices listed on this website are entirely in US dollars. A taxi driver will quote you his price in BZE. For example, a taxi ride from Dangriga airstrip to the Riverside Cafe will cost approximately $5.00 BZE or $2.50 US. Giving the driver $3.00 US would include a generous tip.

Hotels and shops generally accept MasterCard and VISA credit cards. Some may charge a 3-5% service fee.

Everyone accepts cash and Traveler's checks. Most vendors will have you write your passport number on the back of Traveler's Checks.

Transportation

Air Travel To Belize International Airport (BZE)
Expect to pay between $600-$800 for a flight from the States to Belize in the winter. From the states, you will need to connect through one of the cities listed below:

  • American Airlines offers direct flights from Miami (MIA) and Dallas (DFW)
  • Continental Airlines offers direct flights from Houston (IAH)
  • Delta offers direct flights from Atlanta (ATL)
  • Taca offers direct flights from Houston (IAH)
  • US Air offers direct flights from Charlotte (CLT)

Other common city codes are: Boston (BOS), Chicago (ORD), Newark (EWR), Los Angeles (LAX), Portland (PWM), San Francisco (SFO).

If you are not booking through a travel agency, some good flight search engines are:

Air Travel Within Belize
Flights can be booked ahead of time or at the counter. There are two public airlines:

Land Travel Within Belize
Buses cost $5 and depart from Belize City. You will need to take a taxi to the bus depot from the airport. Buses go to Dangriga, Punta Gorda, Corozal, Orange Walk, San Ignacio, and Belmopan. The ride from Belize City to Dangriga takes about 2 1/2 hours.

Car Rentals are available at the airport. You need a valid drivers license to rent a vehicle. Renting a car is a good idea if you are planning on visiting many of the mainland attractions. Belize is only about 68 miles wide and 180 miles long, although the roads are not as smooth as the highways in the States. The main highways (roads) in Belize are:

  • The Northern Highway heads North from Belize City to Corozal and the Mexican Border.
  • The Manatee/Coastal Highway heads South from Belize City to Dangriga.
  • The Western Highway heads West from Belize City to San Ignacio and the Guatemalan Border.
  • The Hummingbird Highway heads SouthEast from Belmopan to Dangriga.
  • The Southern Highway heads south from Dangriga to Punta Gorda.

Gas costs about $4.00 a gallon. Most people in Belize, aside from hotel owners, are very poor and can't afford to have a car.

Tourism is important to the economy of Belize. Although it is safer than its neighboring countries, visitors should exercise normal caution: never leave valuables in view, lock your car doors, keep the gas tank filled, don't pick up hitchhikers and avoid driving at night.

  • www.Budget-Belize.com
  • www.Crystal-Belize.com
  • www.PanchoRentalBelize.com
  • www.Thrifty.com

Taxis are available in cities and can be called for pickups but tend to gather and wait for fares in central parts of town. Usually there are fixed rates for in-town fares and longer distance fares. Taxis do not have meters so always inquire about the rate prior to hiring their services.

Water Taxis are available to take visitors out to the islands. The prices of these vary depending on how far you are going, how many people are in your party, and whether or not you have made arrangements with the hotel at which you are staying. There are several captains who service Tobacco Caye and charge an average of $20-25 dollars per person. If you are staying at Reef's End Lodge, the boat will meet you at the dock outside of the Riverside Cafe in Dangriga.

Other attractions in Belize

Belize is full of nature reserves, marine parks, and Mayan ruins. Some of the highlights include:

  • Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center
  • Blue Hole
  • Cave Tubing and Jungle Medicine Walks in San Ignacio
  • Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary for Jaguar-watching
  • Community Baboon Sanctuary- observe black howler monkeys in their protected habitat.
  • Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary for bird-watching over 286 species of resident and migratory birds including the Jabiru Stork, along with howler monkeys, crocodiles, turtles, and iguanas.
  • Mayan Ruins:
    • Corozal District: Cerros and Santa Rita
    • Orange Walk: Lamanai, Nobmul and Cuello
    • Belize District: Altun Ha
    • Stann Creek District Mayflower
    • Cayo District: Xunantunich, El Pilar, Cahal Pech, Pacbitun and Caracol
    • Toledo District: Nim Li Punit, Ukhenba and Lubaantun.
    • A day trip to Tikal (Guatemala)

    For more information:



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